Tuesday, 15 October 2013

Context that Changed Design - Entry #3

The Aesthetic Movement .......

 

The Aesthetic Movement developed out of the revolutionary Arts & Crafts Movement in Britain and the combination of Gothic and Queen Anne Revival. The earlier styles were blended with Eastern influences and so, an Anglo-Oriental style was created. However, Aesthetic Movement designers still wanted the designs to express English culture.

The Aesthetic Movement was symbolized by the sunflower motif.


THOMAS JECKYLL, Sunflower and iron for BARNARD, BISHOP & BARNARD (circa 1878-84)
 THOMAS JECKYLL, FOR BARNARD, BISHOP & BARNARD
 Artfact, (2006), THOMAS JECKYLL, FOR BARNARD, BISHOP & BARNARD [ONLINE].
 [Accessed 15 October 13]

As the 20th century was approaching, the Aesthetic Movement came out with new ideas and shapes. Oscar Wilde (1854-1990) and Aubrey Beardsley (1872-1898) were great proponents of Aestheticism and they praised the doctrine of the Movement that emphasized art in any product made - furniture, metalwork, ceramics, stained glass, textiles, wallpapers, and books  ......  "Art for Art`s Sake".

                                                                                       
Aesthetic Movement designers, such as Edward William Godwin (1833-1886) and Christopher Dresser (1834-1904) wanted pure beauty in Art and Design.  They wanted to reform design by using pure simple lines.  They were inspired by Japanese woodcuts and also by the wares that were imported from the Middle East and Asia by certain British companies, including Liberty & Co.   However Godwin and Dresser searched for the functional side of the oriental design.  They weren’t really interested in the decorative features like many large British firms did (including Wedgwood, Copeland, Worcester and Minton).  Godwin’s sketchbooks revealed that he used to study various designs from different countries but his finished products always had a completely English style. 

 
  Northampton Guildhall by E.W. Godwin

The Guildhall
 BBC, (2013), Landmarks of Northampton  [ONLINE].
/student_landmarks_gallery.shtml?3
 [Accessed 15 October 13]
 

Pair of Aesthetic Movement Brass Candle Sticks
(c. 1895 England)
Pair of Aesthetic Movement Brass Candle Sticks in style of Christopher Dresser.
The cotworlds art & antique dealers` association, (2013), Hall-Bakker CHRISTOPHER DRESSER (1834-1904) [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.cotswolds-antiques-art.com/antiques/d/pair-of-aesthetic-movement-brass-candle-sticks-in-style-of-christopher-dresser/121104
 [Accessed 15 October 13]

 

 
Progressive middle classes in Britain, such as those living in Bedford Park in West London chose the style of the Aesthetic Movement designers for their "lifestyle".

Liberty & Co. was very interested in the ideas of the Aesthetic Movement and started to use their style for its household furnishings and also for women’s clothes (loose and flowing).
 
Liberty & Co.
 Liberty Blog, (2011), Historic Liberty 2…Outside the Store [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.liberty.co.uk/blog/7793/historic-liberty-2-outside-the-store/
 [Accessed 15 October 13].

 
 Antique Jewelry University, (2013), Liberty & Co. [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.langantiques.com/university/index.php/Liberty_%26_Co.
[Accessed 15 October 13]
 
 
 Fin de siècle by Oscar Wilde and Aubrey Beardsley
 Bilan fin de siècle.jpg
  Wikipedia, (2013), Fin de siècle [ONLINE]. Available at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fin_de_si%C3%A8cle
[Accessed 15 October 13]


Some works of the Herter Brothers and Louis Comfort Tiffany (1848-1933) in the United States, and of François-Eugene Rousseau (1775-1857) in France revealed the style of the Aesthetic Movement as well.



Ebonised Aesthetic Movement wardrobe by the Herter Brothers
  Ebonised Aesthetic Movement wardrobe by the Herter Brothers
pintrest, (2013), Ebonised Aesthetic Movement wardrobe by the Herter Brothers [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/36380709462560995/
[Accessed 15 October 13]
 
 
 
 
Aesthetic Movement - Louis Comfort Tiffany Chandelier
Aesthetic Movement - Louis Comfort Tiffany Chandelier
pintrest, (2013), Aesthetic Movement - Louis Comfort Tiffany Chandelier [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/407927678718570800/
[Accessed 15 October 13]
 
 
François Eugene Rousseau, Paris. Bowl in East-Asian manner (circa 1885)
 liveauctioneers, (2011), Francois Eugene Rousseau, Paris. Bowl in East-Asian manner, circa 1885 [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/8991303
 [Accessed 15 October 13]
 
 
 
Unfortunately nowadays only few objects and untouched interiors (especially domestic ones) remain that truly express the design of the Aesthetic Movement, therefore one cannot appreciate their beauty and richness that much any longer.   It is a pity!
 


Other References: 

Linh Nguyen. 2002. The 19th Century Aesthetic Movement. [ONLINE]
Available at: http://cai.ucdavis.edu/waters-sites/aesthetic_movement/aesthetic_movement.html.
[Accessed 15 October 13]
 
Book: Fiell, C.F and P.F, 1999. Design of the 20th Century. 2nd ed. Germany: Taschen

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